Arranging The Dots

Draw Up The Material Into Gathers

1. Notice how many pleats make up a repeating section of the pattern then multiply this number in dots over the width to be smocked, thus, if pattern takes eight pleats, a multiple of eight should be used, if six a multiple of six and so on. One more dot should be transferred than the number of pleats required for the pattern.

The reason for this is, that as the transfer is ironed on to the wrong side of the material the extra stitch is required for the last pleat. Mark any pattern shapes, armholes, etc., on the material, then mark the position of the smocking allowing enough at the top for a seam. It is often advisable to transfer an extra row of dots at the top than is required for the pattern, as this gathering thread helps to keep the pleats even for the making up. Cut transfer to length and depth required, pin in position on wrong side, and iron off.

1. Run a gathering thread along each row of dots on the wrong side picking up a small amount of material at each one. Commence with a knot and a double stitch and use a separate long thread for each row: leave the thread hanging at the end. When the required number of rows have been worked, draw up the material into gathers by holding the loose ends of thread in one hand and gently easing the gathers along until the required width for the smocking is obtained. It is usual to draw the gathers up to about two inches less than required for finished width, as the work will pull out later. Tie the ends of the threads two and two together.
2. Work the smocking stitches as shown on following examples.
3. Steam press the work before making up the garment. To do this, pin the smocking face down on the ironing blanket stretching it to the required measurement. Place a damp cloth over it and pass a hot iron gently over; the weight of the iron must not rest on the material or the pleats will be flattened. Continue passing the iron gently over the cloth until it is dry.
4. Remove the tacking threads except the extra one at the top.